Travelling in Saudi Arabia – What Western Visitors Really Need to Know

Travelling in Saudi Arabia raises a lot of questions for Western visitors. Is it safe? What are the rules? Can women travel freely? And is it really possible to explore the country independently?

Saudi Arabia is one of the newest destinations to open to international tourism, yet it has welcomed visitors for centuries through religious pilgrimage. Today, travellers are discovering a country of vast landscapes, excellent roads, warm hospitality and deep cultural traditions.

Having driven tens of thousands of kilometres across the Kingdom, from the Red Sea to the Empty Quarter, I want to share what travelling in Saudi Arabia is really like, beyond the headlines and misconceptions.

Driving in Saudi Arabia – Confident drivers will love it

If you enjoy road trips, Saudi Arabia is made for self-drive travel – provided you are a confident driver.

• Roads are generally very good, especially highways linking major cities

• Smaller two-way roads connect towns, villages and historic sites

• Parking is plentiful, even in cities

• Distances are long, so realistic daily planning is essential

Rental cars cannot officially be taken off-road, although you will see many people driving along desert tracks at their own risk. I always advise guests to stick to surfaced roads unless they fully understand the implications for insurance and recovery.

Do factor in long driving distances. On a well-planned itinerary, I recommend keeping daily distances to 200–250 km wherever possible to allow time for stops, exploration and the unexpected.  This distance is also likely to be your limit of “included kms” in your rental package.

One joyful quirk of Saudi driving? Roundabouts. Almost every town has them, and many feature striking civic art. Some are genuinely impressive. Let your passenger handle the photos while you keep your eyes on the road.

Saudi Arabia rewards good planning, particularly on a self-drive journey. Distances are long, and realistic pacing makes all the difference. I’ve mapped this out in detail in my 14-day Saudi Arabia self-drive itinerary, designed for confident drivers who want to explore beyond the obvious.

Driving in Saudi Arabia is best suited to confident drivers who are comfortable with long distances and route planning. Once you’re used to the scale of the country, it becomes a genuinely enjoyable place to explore by road. I’ve written more about what to expect if you’re driving from Oman into Saudi Arabia, including border formalities and the realities of overland travel.

A new tourism destination, but not new to visitors

Saudi Arabia may feel new to Western travellers, but it has hosted religious pilgrims for hundreds of years. Because of this, there is already a vast hospitality network in place.

You’ll find:

• Very basic roadside hotels

• Comfortable mid-range city hotels

• Excellent 4 and 5-star properties

• New resort developments along the Red Sea

Alcohol is still not publicly available to tourists, although qualifying expats can now purchase it in certain circumstances. This has little impact on the travel experience, particularly on a self-drive itinerary focused on landscapes, culture and history.

“Is Saudi Arabia dangerous?” – the biggest misconception

Many Westerners approach Saudi Arabia with caution, shaped by media coverage and fear of the unknown. The reality on the ground is very different.

Saudi Arabia has a young, well-educated population, with many locals having studied in the US or Europe. You will notice immediately how friendly, curious and welcoming people are, especially outside major cities.

Like other GCC countries, Saudi Arabia is extremely safe for visitors:

• CCTV is widespread

• Roads are monitored

• Police and military checkpoints are common on long remote routes

For visitors who follow the law and local customs, there is very little to worry about. This level of monitoring is precisely why people like me feel comfortable travelling solo across the country.

There are restricted areas in the far south near the Yemen border, and UK Foreign Office advice should always be followed. In simple terms, keep at least 80 km away from the border unless you have official permission or a compelling reason to be there.

Many of these concerns mirror wider misconceptions about the region, which I’ve written about in more detail here.

Food, fuel and everyday costs

Saudi Arabia is generally more expensive than Oman or the UAE, largely due to its 15% VAT rate (compared to 5% in neighbouring Gulf states). Petrol, however, is still very cheap.

That said, eating well does not need to be expensive.

• Small town and roadside restaurants often cost £5–£10 per head

• Petrol station complexes are enormous, modern and spotless

My personal favourite dish is maqloobah, which literally means “upside down”. Meat and vegetables are cooked beneath a thick layer of rice, then dramatically flipped onto a large serving platter at your table (or on the floor, if you’re sitting traditionally).

And yes, petrol stations really do sell everything – from coffee and groceries to ropes designed to hobble a camel.

What should women wear in Saudi Arabia?

This is one of the most frequently asked questions about travelling in Saudi Arabia.

• Hair does not need to be covered by Western visitors

• Wearing a black abaya is no longer a legal requirement

• Many Saudi women still wear abayas, often beautifully embroidered, by choice

The key is modesty, not uniformity.

I recommend:

• Loose-fitting trousers or long skirts

• Covered shoulders

• No sheer fabrics

• No offensive slogans or imagery

In some coastal or “adventure” areas, below-knee-length shorts for men are increasingly common, but trousers remain the safest option everywhere.

You will never see the Saudi flag on clothing, and it is never flown at half-mast. This is because the flag bears the shahadah (profession of Islamic faith), and using it decoratively or lowering it would be considered disrespectful.

Religion, Mecca and visiting Madinah

Islam is central to life in Saudi Arabia and should always be treated with respect.

• Non-Muslims may not enter Mecca, and road controls prevent accidental entry

• Since around 2021, non-Muslims may visit Madinah

Madinah is Islam’s second holiest city and a deeply moving place to visit. Pilgrims arrive year-round, beautifully dressed and full of joy. Hiring a local guide for a few hours adds enormous context and ensures you visit respectfully.

If asked about your religion, it is perfectly acceptable to say Christian. It too is an Abrahamic faith and easily understood. Saying you do not believe in God can create awkwardness, not out of hostility, but genuine incomprehension.

Laws, customs and etiquette – what travellers worry about most

Social media and photography

• Do not photograph local women or men without permission

• No photos of police, military, government buildings or equipment

• Avoid negative comments about the country or its leadership, online or offline

Public behaviour

Saudi Arabia is socially conservative.

• Public displays of affection are frowned upon

• Kissing or intimate behaviour is not acceptable

• Holding hands is generally tolerated, particularly for married couples

When in doubt, follow local cues.

Accommodation, couples and sharing rooms

Despite outdated rumours, the reality is simple:

• Couples do not need to be married to share a room

• Marriage certificates are not required

• Same-sex friends regularly book twin rooms without issue, but be aware that same-sex relationships are illegal in Saudi Arabia.

Saudi society is traditional, but hotel practices are pragmatic.

Connectivity and practicalities

• Mobile data is fast and reliable

• Tourist SIM cards are affordable and easy to buy

• Navigation apps work well nationwide

Visas and driving licences

For UK passport holders:

• Visa on arrival is available but can also be applied for online, via the official Visit Saudi Website.

• Multi-entry, valid for up to 90 days in a year

• Cost is around £80, including basic medical insurance

Alternatively, UK citizens can apply in advance for a visa waiver, which is cheaper and valid for longer stays, though single entry.

For driving:

• You need an International Driving Permit (IDP)

• It must be carried alongside your UK driving licence

The IDP is a translation, not a licence in its own right.

Note – if you are a GCC resident, eg UAE resident, then your licence is valid across all 6 countries, so need for IDP.

Final thoughts on travelling in Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia is far more open, friendly and accessible than most people expect. It rewards travellers who arrive curious, respectful and prepared.

Dress modestly, take photos thoughtfully, keep public behaviour low-key, and you will find a country of extraordinary landscapes, warm hospitality and deep history.

If you enjoy independent travel, a well-planned Saudi self-drive itinerary is one of the most rewarding road trips in the Middle East.

For those curious about how a self-drive journey through Saudi Arabia actually comes together, I’ve embedded my 14-day Saudi Arabia itinerary below. It shows realistic driving distances, key stops, and the balance between cities, landscapes and cultural sites.